Kumquats, if you’ve never had them, are a citrus fruit about the size and shape of grapes. Unlike other citruses, you can eat the peel of a kumquat, and in fact, the peel is pleasantly sweet while the flesh itself is quite tart. These flavors make kumquats great for eating straight, but they’re even better when candied. The basic formula for candying citrus is easy – water, sugar, and fruit. But I’ve changed things up a little here for this recipe. Brown sugar and bourbon add extra sweetness and depth while a dried chile lends a little kick. The result is complex and delicious. These candied kumquats can be used for both savory and sweet applications; they’d be just as at home on top of a salad or in a lamb stew as on top of a cake or mixed into ice cream. My absolutely favorite use, though, is as a replacement for the traditional orange slice and maraschino cherry in an old-fashioned. Top a spoonful of these (making sure to get some of their syrup) with ice, bourbon, and bitters, and you’re really in for a treat.
Candied Kumquats (adapted from Autumn Makes and Does)
Yield: approximately 4 cups
Ingredients:
- 2 cups water
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- 1 cup brown sugar
- 1/4 cup bourbon
- 1 dried arbol chile
- 1/4 tsp kosher salt*
- 1 lb kumquats, sliced**
*Smoked salt, if you have it, subtly adds a little extra dimension.
**Removing seeds isn’t necessary, but you may want to discard any large ones.
Method:
- In a medium saucepan, combine 2 cups water, 1 cup granulated sugar, 1 cup brown sugar, 1/4 cup bourbon, 1 dried arbol chile, 1/4 tsp kosher salt, then bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.
- Stir in 1 lb kumquats, sliced, then return to a boil.
- Lower heat, and let simmer uncovered until the kumquats are soft with nearly translucent peels, approximately 1 hour.
- Remove from heat, and let cool slightly before transferring to a jar. Store in the refrigerator.